UTENSILS
Before using any dishes, pots, pans or c o o k i n g utensils that were in contact with flood waler, wash and s t e r i l i z e them.

1. Any piece of equipment that can be taken apart should be cleaned in pieces. Remove plastic and wooden handles from frying pans and saucepans. Clean parts separately.

2. Wash dishes, pots, pans and utensils in hot, sudsy water. Use a brush, if necessary, to remove dirt.

3. After sudsing and brushing, rinse in clear water. Place dishes in a wire basket or other container and dip them in a sanitizing solution. Use a solution recommended by local health authorities or use 1-1/2 tablespoons chlorine bleach to a gallon of water.

4. Air-dry dishes. Do not dry them with a dish towel. If cupboards and food preparation surfaces were in contact with flood water, clean and rinse them with a chlorine bleach solution before storing dishes and utensils.

Rust causes most damage to flooded household metals, especially iron. Use the following treatment to control rusting.

1. Wash with soap and water, using a stiff brush and scouring powder.

2. If rust remains, wipe with an oil saturated cloth or use a commercial rust remover.

3. Remove rust from kitchen utensils by scouring with steel wool.

4. Wash in hot soap suds, rinse and dry thoroughly.

5. Season iron pans and utensils with a generous amount of unsalted cooking oil. Heat in a 250 degree F oven for two or three hours. This will permit oil to soak into pores of metal. During the heating process apply more oil as needed. When seasoning is completed wipe off the excess oil.

Hardware

1. Coat iron hardware with petrolatum or machine oil to prevent further rusting.

2. Use stove polish on stove or similar ironwork.

Locks and hinges, especially those made of iron, should be taken apart, wiped with kerosene and oiled. Follow the same procedure as for iron hardware. If it isn’t possible to remove locks or hinges, squirt a little machine oil into the bolt opening or keyhole. Work the knobs to distribute the oil. This will help prevent rusting of the springs and metal casing. (Do not use too much oil as it may drip on the woodwork, making painting difficult.)

Stainless Steel, Nickel-Copper Alloy, Nickel or Chrome-Plated Metals

1. Wash thoroughly and polish with a finepowdered cleanser.

2. If furniture plating or hardware is broken so that base metal is exposed and rusted, wipe with kerosene and then wash and dry the surface. Wax to prevent further rusting.

Aluminum Pans and Utensils

1. Wash thoroughly with hot sudsy water. Scour any unpolished surfaces, such as the insides of pans, with steel wool pads with soap. Rub in one direction only.

2. Polish plated aluminum surfaces with a fine cleansing powder or silver polish. Do not scour.

3. Sterilize in a chlorine solution.

4. To remove dark stains from aluminum pans caused by alkaline foods, fill pan with water. Add 1 Tablespoon vinegar or 2 teaspoons cream of tartar for each quart of water. Boil for 10 to 15 minutes, scour with steel wool pad with soap, rinse and dry.

Copper and Brass

1. Polish with a special polish or rub with cloth saturated with vinegar or with a piece of salted lemon.

2. Always wash copper thoroughly with soap suds after using acids or commercial polishes or they will retarnish rapidly.

3. Wash lacquered ornamental copper in warm sudsy water. Rinse with warm water and wipe dry. Do not polish. Do not soak.

1. Wash thoroughly with hot sudsy water, rinse and dry. Use a soft toothbrush to get into crevices.

2. Rub on silver polish (paste or liquid, not the dip type) with a soft cloth. Use a soft toothbrush to get into crevices.

3. Rinse in hot soap suds and dry.

4. Check for small holes, cracked joints and dents. If the pewter needs mending and is a prized piece, let a professional fix it.

5. Small holes can be mended by cleaning the metal inside the pewter object with steel wool, then fill with pewter epoxy mender. Follow instructions on the label carefully.

6. Felt or other protection materials that have separated from household decorative accessories such as bookends, ashtrays and candle holders should be replaced. Felt or protective materials can be purchased in fabric stores, cut to match those damaged and glued in place with rubber cement.

Hard water may be contaminated with sewage waste so it is important that flood-soiled clothing be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected in order to kill harmful bacteria. Prompt attention may save much of your clothing that has been damaged by flood waters. If possible, do not permit the flood water and mud to dry in shoes or garments.

• Check your care label to make sure garments are washable.

• If labeled hand washable only, then hand wash— do not put into the washing machine.

• If garment is dry, brush off loose dirt.

• Rinse in clean, cool water to remove mud and flood water. This will take several rinsings  until rinse water is clear.

• Work a heavy duty detergent (liquid) or paste of granule detergent into all stained areas. Let stand 15 to 30 minutes.

• Follow care labels and wash in hottest water safe for garment with detergent.

• Sanitize using a disinfectant. Always test on an inconspicuous seam to be sure it does not harm the garment, such as a color change. Add to washing machine before adding clothing.

• Liquid chlorine bleach (Clorox, Purex) if safe for garment. Do not use on washable wools and silks. Follow directions for use carefully.

• Pine oil (Pine-O-Pine, Fyne Pine) is safe for most washable garments. Do not use on washable wools and silks since the odor will remain.

• Phenolic (Pine-Sol, Al-Pine) is safe for most washable garments. Do not use on washable wools and silks since the odor will remain.

• Hang garments to dry.

Dry-Cleanable Clothing

Take to the drycleaner as soon as possible. Be sure to shake and brush well to remove as much dirt as possible. Give the drycleaner as much information as possible about:

1. What caused the damage.

2. The fiber content of fabric, if known, dye.

1. Rinse in cold water to remove water-soluble, clay-type soil. Rinse garment as quickly as possible to avoid bleeding of dyes and to keep shrinkage to a minimum.

2. Gently squeeze out excess water and shake out wrinkles. Rolling in dry towels will help remove excess water.

3. Place garment on hanger and dry in cool air or smooth it out on flat surface to dry.

Garments That Are Only Partly Wet

1. Try to rinse out the wet portion without dipping the entire garment in cold water. If this cannot be done without leaving a strong stain line, it is better to dip the entire garment.

2. Shake out wrinkles and dry in cool air.

Dry Garments With Soil in Them

The soil may be difficult to remove. Shake well to remove as much soil as possible before sending to the dry cleaner.

Wet Garments, But Not Soiled

Dry in cool air to prevent mildew and transfer of dye.

LEATHER AND SUEDE GARMENTS AND ACCESSORIES

Leather and suede garments, shoes, belts and handbags should be allowed to dry away from direct heat then:

• Brush off as much mud as possible.

• Use mild soap suds and cool water to remove remaining dirt.

• Rinse with clean water and wipe gently with clean cloth until all dirt is removed. Do Not get the leather or suede too wet while cleaning.

• Stuff shoes, handbags, and sleeves with paper to maintain their shape.

• Dry away from sun and heat.

• Clean with saddle soap.

• Use an oil for leather or suede to soften and prevent stiffening. NOTE: This oil may darken the leather, so check before using

• Use a suede brush to restore its original appearance. Be sure to brush in only one direction.

CLEANING HOUSEHOLD LINENS AND FURNISHINGS

Mattresses

Due to the complex construction of modern mattresses, renovation is usually not possible. It is best to buy a good used mattress or a new mattress. If a mattress must be used temporarily, scrape off surface dirt and wash with a bleach solution (3/4 cup of bleach to 1 gallon of water) to clean and disinfect the mattress. Use gloves when washing the fabric and then expose the mattress to the sun. Turn occasionally to dry. Household fans may also speed up the drying process. Cover mattress with plastic or a rubber sheet before using it.

Feather Pillows

If ticking is in good condition, wash feathers and ticking together.

1. Brush off surface dirt.

2. To circulate water through pillows, open a few inches of the seam to opposite corners of the pillow, turn edges, sew loosely with strong thread or fasten with safety pins.

3. Wash in machine or by hand in warm (not hot) suds 15 to 20 minutes. Use a disinfectant in the wash cycle. If using an automatic washer, do not wash more than two pillows at a time.

4. Rinse at least three times in clear, warm water.

5. Spin off water or gently squeeze out as much wear as possible. Do not put pillows through wringer.

6. Dry in an automatic dryer at moderate heat setting or dry in a warm room with a fan or across two or three clotheslines. Put several bath towels or a clean tennis shoe in dryer with pillows to speed up drying and to keep the pillows "moving." Allow at least two hours. Shake up feathers occasionally to hasten drying.

Washing feathers and ticking separately
If ticking is not in good condition or if pillow is badly soiled, wash feathers and ticking separately.

1. Find a muslin bag or large pillow case which is two or three times larger than the ticking.

2. Open one edge of ticking.

3. Sew open edges of the ticking and the bag together.

4. Shake the feathers from ticking to muslin bag.

5. Close seam of bag.

6. Wash bag of feathers in lukewarm, sudsy water and disinfectant.

7. Repeat if necessary.

8. Rinse in lukewarm water, changing water several times.

9. Squeeze out as much water as possible by hand. Do not use a wringer.

10. To air-dry, hang on line by two corners. Change position end to end and shake feathers occasionally to speed up drying.

11. Wash the ticking. With a sponge, apply a starch solution to the inside of the ticking or use a spray starch.

12. Transfer clean feathers to the clean, sanitized starched ticking, using the same methods as for emptying.

13. Close seam of ticking. It is very important to completely dry the feathers to reduce potential odors. If pillows have been badly soiled, it may not be possible to remove all objectionable odors.

Polyester Fiberfill Pillows

1. Brush off surface dirt.

2. Wash by hand or in a washing machine in warm water and lowsudsing detergent. Add a disinfectant to the wash water. Flush water through pillow by compressing it. (Twisting and wringing will tear filling.) Change water and repeat if necessary.

3. Rinse three times in clear, warm water.

4. Spin off water in automatic machine. Tumble dry in dryer at moderate setting with several bath towels or press out as much as possible by hand and hang on line outdoors to dry.

Foam Rubber or Urethane Pillows

1. Remove cover. Brush off surface dirt.

2. Follow manufacturer’s directions if they are available. Otherwise, soak in cool water; then wash in warm, suds by hand. Use a bathtub or large sink. Then wash by pushing down on pillow, releasing, and pushing down again. Rinse the same way in lukewarm water.

3. Gently squeeze or spin out excess water. Blot with towels.

4. Dry away from heat or sunlight. Do not dry in dryer unless on an "air only" setting. Pillows may dry very slowly in the air. If the pillows are old they may crumble.

BLANKETS, QUILTS AND COMFORTERS

Wash only one blanket, quilt or comforter at a time.

1. Shake and brush to remove surface dirt. Follow manufacturer’s laundering directions if available. Otherwise, proceed as follows.

2. Soak at least 15 minutes in lukewarm water, turn two or three times during soak period. Several soak periods may he beneficial depending on the amount of soil lodged in fibers. Change water for each soak period.

3. Wash using a mild detergent, disinfectant and lukewarm water. Immerse blanket and work suds in gently, using as little agitation as possible.

4. Rinse in several changes of lukewarm water. Soak each time for five minutes turning once or twice by hand. Extract as much water as possible.

5. Hang blanket over two lines to dry so it forms an "M" shape or dry it in preheated dryer with several large, dry bath towels. Remove blanket from dryer while still damp and hang over two lines to finish drying. Gently stretch blanket into shape.

6. Brush blanket on both sides to raise nap. Steam press binding, using synthetic setting on iron. Wash lightweight quilts following directions for wool blankets. Dry outdoors in sunlight, if possible, to remove unpleasant odors.

You may need to take thick comforters apart and wash cover and filling separately.

Washable Woolen Bedding

Shake and brush well to remove loose dirt. Wash in lukewarm (barely warm) water with mild soap or detergent. Use a disinfectant. Dry in warm place or in direct sunlight.

Electric Blankets

Follow manufacturer’s directions, if available. Most manufacturers recommend electric blankets be washed, not dry cleaned. Cover plug with heavy cloth and follow instructions above. Avoid bending wiring. Do not put electric blankets through a wringer or dry in a dryer, unless manufacturer recommends. To dry, squeeze down blanket lengthwise and hang over two lines.

Sheets, Towels, Linens

1. Brush off as much loose dirt as possible.

2. Rinse mud-stained fabrics in cold water to take out particles of soil lodged in

fibers.

3. Wash in warm suds and disinfectant several times, if necessary. To avoid setting stains do not use hot water. Rinse well.

4. If stains remain after several washings, try bleaching white cottons and linens. Do not over bleach. Sun drying will aid bleaching. Bleaches may be used on some colored fabrics; follow directions on bleach package.

CLEANING FLOODSOILED RUGS AND CARPETS

It is likely that rugs and carpets will have to be cleaned by a professional rug cleaner. However, you can try the following cleaning methods.

Dry

Dry rugs and carpets as soon as possible to prevent mildew. Mildew is a spreading gray-white mold that stains and rots fabrics. Pull up water logged rugs immediately to prevent further damage to the floor. If possible dry small rugs outdoors in sunlight. Dry blankets or towels can be used to blot up excess moisture. Lay towels on the wet floor and walk on them to absorb moisture. To get air and heat to carpets, open windows if weather permits or use household electric fans or electric lights suspended on coat hanger "nests." Do not try to vacuum, sweep or shampoo carpets until they are thoroughly dry.

After carpet is dry, thoroughly vacuum or sweep to get rid of dirt and debris. Move vacuum cleaner slowly to pick up more dirt. Clean off as much crusted dirt and sediment as possible before shampooing.

Shampoo

Note: Some rugs may shrink when shampooed.

1. Use a commercial rug shampoo which may be applied to the carpet with an electrical rug shampooer, a manual applicator, a sponge mop or a hand brush.

2. An electrical shampooer agitates the carpet fibers and works the shampoo into the pile, removing soil. It should not be used on shag carpeting because the long pile can become tangled in the brushes.

3. After cleaning each section of the carpet, brush the wet pile in one direction with the applicator.

4. When the foam has dried thoroughly, vacuum the carpet to remove dry shampoo and loose dirt.

5. If carpet must be disinfected, dip sponge in a weak chlorine solution (1/4 teaspoon Clorox or other chlorine bleach to 1 cup water). Wring out sponge and wipe carpet in sections. Use as little water as possible on the sponge, since water will weaken carpet backing.

6. Rinse several times with clear water, wringing most of the water from the sponge each time. Change the rinse water as it becomes dirty.

7. Blot up remaining moisture with bath towels or other soft absorbent material.

Dry

After shampooing, dry rugs or carpets quickly. Hang rugs on line if possible, or lay them out flat in a warm, dry place. An electric fan will speed up drying. Carpets and rugs should be thoroughly dried. Even though the surface seems dry, any moisture remaining at the base of the fiber tufts will cause mildew or rot. If you must walk on the carpet before it is dry, put down brown paper. Vacuum again when dry, and brush the nap in one direction.

SALVAGING HOUSEHOLD FURNITURE

Before starting to salvage damaged furniture, decide which pieces are worth restoring. Such decisions should be based on:

a. Extent of damage

b. Cost of the article

c. Sentimental value

d. Cost of restoration

Consider each piece individually.

Antiques may be worth the time, effort and expense of restoration. Unless damage is severe, you can probably clean, reglue and refinish antiques at home. Extensive repair or re-veneering work should be done at a reliable furniture repair shop. Solid wood furniture can usually be restored, unless damage is severe. You will probably need to clean, dry and reglue the piece. Slightly warped boards may be removed and straightened.

Wood veneered furniture is available in many qualities. Extensive damage may be costly to repair. If veneer is loose in just a few places, you may be able to repair it. Upholstered furniture may be salvageable, depending on its general condition. Flooded pieces will need to be cleaned and dried, and mildew should be removed. If damage is extensive, you may have to replace padding and upholstery. Since this is an expensive process, it might be wiser to apply the money toward a new piece of furniture. You will not need to repair all pieces immediately. Any furniture worthy of repair should be completely cleaned, dried and stored in a dry, well-ventilated place until you have time to repair it.

SALVAGING UPHOLSTERED FURNITURE

Upholstered furniture that has been submerged in flood water may be impossible to salvage if it has been badly soaked. If the piece seems worth the effort, however, you will need to clean and oil the springs, replace stuffing and clean the frame.

1. Remove furniture coverings using a ripping tool, hammer or tack puller, screwdriver or chisel.

2. Remove all tacks from the frame.

3. Wash coverings.

4. Throw away all cotton stuffing. You can dry, fumigate, and sometimes reuse padding made of materials other than cotton.

Springs and Frame

1. Wipe off springs and frame. Dry all metal parts and paint them with rust-inhibiting paint. Oil springs.

2. Store wood furniture where it will dry out slowly.

Mildew

Mildew may have developed on damp or wet furniture. Mildew is a gray-white mold that leaves stains and rots fabric unless it is removed promptly. To remove mildew or mildew spots:

1. Brush with a broom to remove loose mold from outer covering. Do this outdoors if possible, so you don’t scatter mildew spots (which can start new growth) in the house.

2. Vacuum the surface to draw out mold. Dispose of the vacuum cleaner bag outside to avoid scattering mold spores in the house.

3 If mildew remains and fabric is washable, sponge lightly with thick soap or detergent suds. Wipe with a clean, damp cloth. Get as little water on the fabric as possible, so the padding doesn’t get wet.

4. If mold remains, wipe the furniture with a damp cloth dipped in dilute alcohol (1 cup denatured alcohol to 1 cup water) or a chlorine bleach solution (1/4 teaspoon bleach to a cup of water). Test in an area that is "hidden."

5. Dry the article thoroughly.

6. Use a low-pressure spray containing a fungicide to get rid of musty odors and remaining mildew. Moisten all surfaces thoroughly. Re-spray frequently if mildew is a continuing problem. Spraying rooms with an aerosol material will not eliminate mildew problems.

7. If molds have grown into inner part, send furniture to a dry cleaning or storage company for thorough drying and fumigation. Fumigation will kill molds present at the time, but will not protect against future attacks.